Silk Jersey Fabric: What It Is and How to Sew It
Silk jersey is knitted rather than woven silk, which gives it a soft stretch and a drape that woven silks cannot match. It is light, it breathes, and it feels extraordinary worn next to the skin - which is why it turns up in luxury tees, lingerie and pyjamas. It asks for a stretch needle and a light touch, but it is not difficult once you know how it wants to be handled, with expert tips from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
What is silk jersey fabric?
For a luxurious, comfortable fabric, you cannot beat silk jersey. This fabric is soft and drapes beautifully. This jersey is perfect for warm weather wear, due to its light weight and the fact that it "breathes".
Pretreatment
Handwash using baby shampoo and cool water. Lay flat to dry.
Needles and thread
Use a 70/10 stretch needle for your seams. Poly/cotton thread or all polyester thread are the best choices for working with this fabric.
Seams, seam finishes and hems
Choose a triple zigzag or stretch stitch for best results. If you have a serger, a 3 thread overlock with balanced tension will work beautifully, even for constructing the seams. Seam finishes are not necessary in this fabric.
For hems, use the lettuce edge rolled hem for a quick and easy hem. For an even, beautiful hem, a twin needle is your best bet. Choose a 4.0/75 stretch needle, and set your stitch length to 2.5. Interface your hems for best results. If you have a cover stitch capability to your serger, use the narrowest width available for a beautiful, professional-looking hem.
Interfacing
Should your project require interfacing, use a cool-fuse, lightweight interfacing like So Sheer, Touch-o-Gold, or Silk Weight. Test your iron's heat on a scrap of the fabric; some prints may need to have a press cloth between the fabric and the iron. Match the grain of your interfacing to the grain of the knit.
What to make with silk jersey
Patterns for knits, such as tees, tanks, leggings, and lingerie are all appropriate choices. You can also use this fabric successfully for luxury pajamas, copying the styling of pricey ready-to-wear items. Patterns with draped, twisted, or gathered details will work well in this fabric.
Handling tips
Use a light touch when stitching this fabric. Do not use heavy pressure with the iron, and handle the garment as you would do for a fine sweater. Do not allow the fabric to drag off your sewing table when cutting or sewing. Hold as much of the fabric level as possible while it feeds through your machine. Press your seams flat before pressing them open, using steam, and the "silk" setting on your iron. Save your scraps to use as bindings for other knits.
More on silk and knits
See the main silk fabric guide for how silk behaves in general, or the guides to silk charmeuse, dupioni silk and sandwashed silk. Learn how to sew a luxurious silk tee here.
Shop silk jersey
Browse the silk fabric collection and the knit fabrics collection at EOS. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is silk jersey fabric?
Knitted silk with a soft natural stretch and fluid drape. Lighter and more breathable than woven silk, and comfortable directly against the skin.
How do you sew silk jersey?
Use a 70/10 stretch needle with a triple zigzag or stretch stitch, or a 3-thread overlock. Seam finishes aren't needed - it doesn't ravel.
How do you hem silk jersey?
A lettuce-edge rolled hem is quickest. For a flat, even hem use a 4.0/75 twin stretch needle at stitch length 2.5, and interface the hem first.
Can you wash silk jersey?
Hand-wash in cool water with baby shampoo and lay flat to dry.
What can you make with silk jersey?
Tees, tanks, leggings, lingerie and luxury pyjamas, plus anything with draped, twisted or gathered detail.